It's easy to fall into the trap of thinking that there are only a few parts to a guitar. There are dozens. And if you count things like frets individually (each does have to be cut, fitted and shaped separately), we're talking over 100 pieces. Some are chiefly chosen for cosmetic reasons, like the knobs-- but most have to work together to create an instrument with good tone and playability. The tolerances of some parts are in the thousands of an inch, and not all parts are compatible with each other.
I will refrain from specific product/site recommendations because, hey, it's your money, your ears and your style, but I will lay out a process that should help you avoid frustration and assemble parts that will work harmoniously. Yes, I did really say that.
Selecting Parts
Before you order anything, you have to make a few decisions and compile some specific information/measurements.
Indispensable tool #1: Buy a digital caliper for precise measuring.
You'll thank me. It's amazing how often you will use it and how helpful it is. It should read out in millimeters, fractional inches and decimal inches. Different parts supply sites will list specs using all three formats. A decent one can be had from various sources for $20-$25. You can spend way more, but probably don't need to.
First, I suggest you list and measure some key components of guitars you like, sound good to you, and are comfortable to play. Direct measurement of a specific guitar is best, but manufacturer websites often provide some of this information. The Stewart-MacDonald website also has a ton of specs and info. Some things to think about (and measure!) are listed here. The bold type items you must know in order to correctly match and order parts.
- String scale length (nut to bridge, most fenders/bolt-on guitars will be 25 1/2 inches)
- Neck width at nut (most common is 1 11/16 inches)
- String spread at nut (E to E center of string)
- String spread at bridge (E to E center of string. Trem bridges are typically wider than fixed bridges)
- Fret size (height x width)
- 3x3 or 6 inline tuners and the diameter of the tuner hole in the headstock (often expressed in millimeters. 10mm is a common size)
- Set neck or bolt-on (bolt pattern and heel shapes are not universal, although the Strat style is very common)
- Bridge type (wraparound w/studs, fixed plate, tremolo, Tune-O-Matic)
- Bridge stud hole size/spacing or mounting hole size/spacing
- Pickups (single coil, P90, humbucker? how configured?)
- Fretboard radius
- Body thickness, especially top thickness in control cavity (regular or long shaft pots)
v One piece mahogany neck
v Set neck tenon matched to body
v 12″radius fretboard
v 24.625″ scale
v Slim 60′s neck profile (1st Fret .8" / 12th fret .885 ")
v Jescar fret wire Medium Jumbo (6130)
v 1 11/16″ nut width
v 2.5 degree neck angle out of body
v 8.8mm Post Holes for tuners
v 1 3/8″ body thickness, with very clean cuts on the curves
v Bridge stud hole diameter is 7/16″
v Bridge spacing is 3.25″
Second, once you have a good idea of the type/style guitar you wish to build, compile a master list of every component that you will need, every supply, and every tool. Not the specific product, just the general part: i.e., nut, bridge, neck, etc. Here's the list I compiled for my SG jr build.
- Neck
- Body
- Nut
- Volume/Tone pots
- Volume/Tone knobs
- Capacitors/resistors for tone/volume circuit
- 1/4" jack
- wiring: shielded and hookup
- Bridge/bridge studs
- Strap buttons
- Pickup
- Pickguard/truss rod cover/ screws
- Sandpaper (200, 320, 400, 600, 800 grit)
- Grain filler
- amber, brown, mahogany dye
- Clear coat lacquer, oil or poly
- Tuners
Third, for each component list the measurements/values needed for that item. Be sure measurements match up! For example, I selected an .022uf Sprague orange drop cap and a CTS 500k pot for the tone circuit. The only crucial measurement here really is the top thickness: will I have to order a long shaft pot? Otherwise the values I've chosen are because of personal preference. I'll install a TusqXL nut, but the dimensions, and therefore the specific part #, are dictated by the nut slot in the neck. The tuners must use the smaller, vintage tuner holes, or I'll have to ream them out larger. The bridge must be a wraparound with studs that will match the hole diameter and spacing in the body, or again I'll have to do extra work filling and re-drilling. The neck angle here also is a factor: the bridge can't be too tall, or the action will be too high.
Fourth, once you have the specific values needed for each item, you can peruse catalogs and websites for specific products that match your criteria. I like to use a legal pad and use a separate sheet for each website/store, listing the item, item number, price, etc. for reference and comparison. An easy way to this if you are looking online is to add possible items to your "shopping cart" and then print out the contents of your cart-- you can also check on the shipping charges as well.
Now you can do an apples-to-apples comparison of who has the parts you want at the best prices. Like me, you will probably find that this means ordering from multiple suppliers to get what you want. The (sometimes) extra shipping charges are almost always outweighed by price savings, and most importantly, getting exactly what you need.
Sites for Sourcing Parts
A disclaimer: I am not affiliated with any supplier, I receive no special discount, or freebies, or other consideration. Your experience may differ, and if you have a particularly good or bad experience, please share.
With that out of the way, I will compile a separate page of parts suppliers. I'm only listing suppliers that I have ordered from, had good experience with, and seem to be honest and above board. Check the pages listed on the Home page of this blog for the list.
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